Owner and promoter of “Cine Ideal” Alonso Rivera Moreno, hanging up some posters (left) and with his friends in the bar of the movies, way back in the fifties (up). His sons, Roberto and Manolo nowadays run “Los Caireles”, a participant of the local guides in this book.
The following images are comercial slides that were shown before each movie.
Calle Niño de Guevarava 3 Malaga tel. +34 952 219390
It’s been about five years since Frederico and Hicham arrived in Malaga, after having worked for years in Brussels’ nightlife and music scene. In spite of the multiple prejudices concerning the Costa del Sol – frequently called “Costa del Golf” – they were surprised at the good vibes and possibilities of its capital Malaga. Soon after Clandestine was launched, word spread all over the city centre and beyond. Open seven days a week throughout the day and late evening, here one can enjoy imaginative salads and a variety of creative dishes at any time. Daily specials complete the distinctive offer. Discover the ever-changing selection of international beers and cocktails or the daily fresh desserts. Their perfect day goes something like this:
Doha Mariquita Plaza Uncibay
Because of its large terrace, its variety of people, and its great service, this is the ideal spot to make plans for the rest of the day.
Casa Aranda next to Plaza Felix Saenz
This is where the locals gather in the morning for churros con chocolate (hot pastries) and for the delightful coffee.
Ultramarino de Bacalao Calle Martinez
Here you can buy an amazing variety of salted fish.
Casa del Guardia Alameda Principal
Definitely one of Malaga’s all-time classics, where you can taste local wines amid a decoration that survived time. You can take some wine home or to your hotel room.
Comoloco Calle Jose Denis Belgrano
Great spot for appetising salads and original pitas.
Samarkanda Calle Jose Denis Belgrano
Gorgeous dishes from Lebanon and Morocco served in a cosy setting.
Refectorium Calle Cervantes
Delicious traditional tapas and raciones (portions).
Cobertizo El Palo, Avenida Pio Barojo
This quality restaurant features an authentic bodega.
El Pimpi Florida El Palo, Avenida Juan Sebastian Elcano
Amidst an urban mess of buildings, this is a haven of ancient times where one can enjoy the best seafood in town.
S.A. Company close to Banos del Carmen Calle Perez Escrich
Great choice of music and all in an ambience you surely have to check out.
Flor de Lys Plaza de la Merced
Hip DJ sessions and a lively atmosphere almost every day.
Galerias Goya Calle Caldereria 6 Malaga
For years now, Paco has been working as an animator and educator in the poor gipsy suburbs of Malaga. Due to his work, he was introduced to the art of flamenco in all its aspects and was soon asked to write about his experiences for various magazines.
Now, after eight years of social work, Paco has opened one of the few flamenco shops in Andalucia, where you can find instruments, CDs, books, gipsy artwork and handicrafts, as well as information about flamenco routes, concerts, and festivities. So, if you’re up for a pure flamenco evening, go and have a chat with Paco, and he will tell you where to go. Paco hopes you will enjoy some of the places in “his” Malaga.
Restaurante El Tintero II El Palo, Playa del Dedo
The waiters walk between the tables, singing with full passion, and they carry the continuously changing fish dishes above your head. By giving them a sign, they serve you the plate instantly… The idea is that you keep ordering until you’re satisfied. You can’t eat fish on the beach in a more authentic way than here…
Bar Iñaki Calle Heroe de Sostoa 54
Try the brocheta de pollo con patatas, con salsa a la pimienta y champiñones (chicken with peppers and mushrooms). The fish on offer is exquisite.
Taberna El Beato Calle Beatas
Excellent tapas and friendly service.
Meson La Mesonera Calle Gomez Pallete
Pleasant atmosphere, and all tapas are on display at the bar. Next to Teatro Cervantes, a theatre with a regular program of different cultural events (Web www.teatrocervantes.es).
Cañadu Vegetarian Plaza de la Merced 21
Several vegetarian tapas here, but also a good place for natural juices, milkshakes, and tea.
Peña Los Verdiales Calle Tajuna 6
Here you can learn more about one of Malaga’s most classic styles of singing. Apart from an exposition room, you can dine during the concerts that are frequently organised.
Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares Calle Pasillo de Santa Isabel 10
Charming museum of popular arts and customs.
Museo de Arte Flamenco Calle Ramon Franquelo
Different rooms with expositions, an activity centre, and bar.
La Trastienda Calle Ollerias 14
New and second-hand books, CDs, posters, and
This is an alternative travel agency offering trips through Andalueia and Morocco, trying to approach areas in a respectful way and combining two cultures with the same past.
Hostal Blue Acacias Paseo de las Acacias 5, tel. +34 952 206220
Charming little hostel near the beach.
Leaving Malaga to the north in the direction of Antequerra, the moonscape nature park El Torcal is a geological treasure and a must for nature lovers (Web www.eltorcal.com). Leaving the park, you follow Antequerra, and then you head towards Fuente de Piedra, where, in the spring and summer, you can admire one of Europe’s largest flamingo concentrations, together with different species of other migrating birds. Near to this salt lagoon, you can rent a colonial-style country house:
Casa Rural la Zaranda Fuente de Piedra, Avenida de Andalucla 21, tel. +34 647 425400 or +34 670 549502,
In Fuente de Piedra you are, when travelling by car, a little hour away from Ronda, having crossed the heart of Andalucia’s laidback countryside. Ask in the bars along the road for porra de Antequera, a delightful, slightly spicy vegetable tapa and a true original from this region. Leaving Campillos behind you, take a left after a few kilometres, and follow the sign “embalses.” This windy road along the lake’s shore is full of bars and restaurants and is very inviting for a break with magnificent views, a swim, and you can also rent a small boat…
Then head towards Ardales, where you can take the road up to Ronda.
Calle Beatas Malaga
Level has been run by Jesus since 1999. With a regular billing of national DJs, this night bar brings together all locals looking for new and original music. It is really tiny, but therefore almost always lively, even on evenings at the beginning of the week. You should definitely try the chupitos (small cocktails), as Jesus serves a large variety of these. Still a youngster, Jesus realised music was his all-time passion, and soon he was to host two radio programs, ‘El Mundo del Jazz’ and ‘Progresion.’ In need of expanding his horizon in 1985, he decided to go to the north of Europe, where he worked as a DJ, a waiter, along with five or six other jobs. Spending long periods in London and Berlin, it is finally Stockholm where he decides to live for a couple of years. Together with his Swedish friends from the label Rob’n’Raz, they start interchanging musical projects, for example Los Raperos del Sur, one of the first Spanish hip-hop bands and mixed in Stockholm.
In 1991, Jesus returned to his beloved Malaga and finds the city with a new spirit. He set up a circuit of alternative dance parties under the name ‘Antimeditation,’ soon a classic in nighttime Malaga. Known as Guru Jesus, he started remixing songs by a bunch of southern bands, compiled on ‘Aftersun Tracks.’ Although it took a lot of struggling to make a living out of music, Jesus says he is proud of his Malaga today. And here are Jesus’ tips for his city:
El Balneario Pedregalejo
An hour before sunset, this place, overlooking the bay of Malaga, is an absolute must. The couscous served on the ravaged terrace is very tasty, especially when accompanied with a fresh tinto de verano (summer wine). Sometimes concerts and parties are organised here, frequently transforming into magical evenings.
El Castillo de Gibralfaro and Parador
Spectacular views over Central Malaga and the Mediterranean. The Parador’s restaurant is slightly more expensive, but it’s all worth its price.
Centro de Arte Contemporaneo Calle Alemania
Recently opened, this little brother to the Picasso Museum is becoming a new must-see in Malaga’s cultural life. All ages meet up in the bar of the museum and visit the expositions afterwards, most of them international top quality.
Centro Cultural de la Diputacion de Malaga Calle Ollerias
Almost every weekday, this art centre presents cultural activities: poetry, film, expos, and, on Tuesdays, live music in Martes Musica.
Meson Iberico Calle Duquesa de Parcent
Considered by the locals as an all-time classic in tapa world.
Quitapenas Calle Santa Maria
Delicious wines and all kinds of fresh fish.
La Casa del Guardia Alameda Principal
Packed with enormous barrels full of various local wines, specialises in fish tapas.
Centro Asturiano Calle Capitan
Here you can taste tapas from the northern Spanish province Asturias.
Citron Plaza de Merced
New-style kitchen, with a DJ session some days.
Nouvelle Calle Tejon y Rodriguez
Very spacious and elegant restaurant, serving modern, international dishes.
A Pedir de Boca Calle Reding 11
Amazing nouvelle cuisine, highly recommended.
Dona Mariquita Plaza de Uncibay
One of the most classic cafes to order a coffee or to have a drink before going out.
Atica Calle Convalecientes
Rock music and all the classic pop songs.
Zeppelin Calle Beatas
Yes indeed, they still play a lot of Led Zeppelin and more classic rock tunes here.
Mondo Tiki and Warhol Plaza Uncibay
Two clubs located in the same square, the first with more house-oriented music and Warhol heading much more into the electronic direction. These clubs are on the hot list of the local gay community.
Abisinia Calle Beatas
Younger crowd, DJs, and live bands, playing mainly hip-hop and ragga.
Nomada Calle Madre de Dios
Different alternative music styles, with a regular program of indie bands and DJs.
Chill House Club Calle Reding
A two-floor club, each with different dance music. The terrace is great to chill or to chat.
Hotel Villa Guadalupe Puerto de la Torre, Calle Bandaneira
Just outside the city centre, this elegant hotel offers great views as well as a strongly recommended restaurant. Chef Amador mixes traditional and modern cuisine with outstanding flavours.
SALA FACTORIA / SUPERSKUNK
Calle Granada 52 Malaga
BABILONIA corner Calle Granada Malaga
At the end of the eighties, Luis Rubio and a couple of friends set up a company, Factoria/Beatas, with the idea of promoting cultural events and concerts by indie bands in Malaga and surroundings. Their office was in Calle Beatas, a typical Andalucian street with lots of bars and nightclubs. Soon after, they started up their own club, which they called Sala Factoria, with the aim of creating new projects in alternative entertainment. Luis especially remembers one night with Mano Negra, who, during one of their tours, called up one day to say:
“Tomorrow, we’re coming to play your oluh. Spread the word…” Amazingly enough, this tactic worked, and everybody started calling everybody else, and on the night of the gig, the venue was so packed they had to leave half of the audience in the street. Also the way they communicated with the band’s management was special… Their manager would start every sentence with: “Mano Negra has decided that…” or “Mano Negra thinks that…” All of this all night long. Luis remembers: “The concert was absolutely one of the best I ever helped set up, for its music and for its wild and passionate atmosphere.” In the mid-nineties, after some years of vicious competition, Sala Factoria closed down, but is brought back to life every year during the feria in Malaga in the second and third week of August. It still maintains a great bill, full of national and international bands and DJs. Today, Luis Rubio runs two different types of shops: Babilonia, specialised in ethnic products and handicrafts, and Superskunk, offering a wide variety of Spanish and international design objects. These are Luis’ favourite spots:
Abisinia Calle Beatas
Owner Jesus is one of the best local DJs, and he frequently organises concerts.
La Anchoita Calle Beatas
At the end of the Beatas street, in front of this bar on the Plaza del Teatrodonde, you can see a huge tropical ficus with its roots covering half of the square. In this bar, there is a good variety of fried fish, especially the caldo caliente pintaroja (spicy rock fish soup). A good mix of old men and people who have aged too soon due to living too fast.
Grass & Scratch Calle Dos Aceras
In this shop, frequented by many DJs, you’ll find flyers for all of the parties in Andalucia.
Evolution Calle Dos Aceras
The first modern-style hairdressers’ salon in the city, considered a classic nowadays.
Cafe Negro Calle Alcazabilla
Enchanting street with a Roman theatre. Behind the theatre, there is a beautiful path that leads to the Castillo de Gibralfaro, with gorgeous views over the city. Before or after this walk, you should have a coffee or something fresh in this stylish bar.
El Vegetariano de Alcazabilla Calle Alcazabilla
In front of the cinema screening original-language movies, you’ll find a cosy restaurant with contemporary vegetarian dishes.
Palo Cortao Calle Pasaje de Sancha
Andalucian kitchen accompanied by an excellent selection of wines.
Los Viquingos Calle Pasaje de Sancha
A small restaurant with one of the most imaginative menus to be found in the city.
Casa Flores Calle Martinez
Ask for a florester, a unique blend of Malaga wine with soda.
Pita Bar Calle Echeguaray
A pleasant and creative fusion of all typical dishes from the Mediterranean.
Merendero Paco Paseo Maritimo Antonio Molina
This is one of the best places to have fresh sardines on the beach.
Merendero Miguelito el Cariñoso Paseo Maritimo de Pedregalejo
Specialised in fried fish, but the almejas (clams) are also exquisite.
Restaurante El Caleño Paseo Maritimo de Pedregalejo
Here you should order fresh fish cooked in the oven with salt, a true delicacy.
Museo Municipal Paseo de Reding, tel, +34 952 225106
Each year, there are a couple of interesting expositions. Check it out.
Rastro next to football stadium La Rosaleda
Each Sunday morning, a curious mix of locals gathers here to sell all kinds of kitsch, rubbish, and that one thing you were looking for at incredibly low prices. It’s worth the visit alone for the unique characters and atmosphere.
Jardin Botanico la Concepcion Carretera Nacional 331, km 166 direction Antequera
Considered one of the best botanical gardens in Europe, it holds plants from all continents. Due to Malaga’s climate, you can walk through a unique collection of tropical and subtropical vegetation.
If you first visit this park and then head for El Torcal in Antequera, with its dry and rocky stone formations, you’ll be able to enjoy two completely different natural ambiences within a short distance of only 50 kilometres.
Plaza de los Olivos Marbella
It was a difficult time for alternative music when Juan Alonso (owner) and Paco Lilian (music agent) decided, in 2002, to open Premiere. The idea was to create a space that could function as a club and as a concert hall, where musicians would gather to play or to listen to less commercial music. Today, after only a couple of years, Premiere has filled that necessary gap for music lovers, and from Wednesday through Sunday, a wide mix of people can enjoy an eclectic cocktail of funk, soul, and electronic music. Join the two on a trip through “their Marbella”…
From the central Plaza de los Naranjos, you head for the Calle del Viento, which will lead you into the Calle de Hospital Bazan, where the Museo del Grabado is located, an absolute must because it is off the tourist track, and it contains a unique collection of prints and engravings, not to be found elsewhere in Spain. Then you take Calle Salinas, ending up in the Castillo, a Moorish fortress from the ninth century and built on visible Roman ruins. From here, you can walk down and enter the Parque de la Represa. Once you reach the bridge that crosses the park, go to the left and enter Calle Lobatas (street of wolves). This old street lends its name from the wolves that came down from the nearby mountains, looking for the garbage people left at the old city border. The street interconnects with the Calle Ancha, with its magnificent old townhouses, some of them recently restored. Now you’re back in the centre, where we recommend the following sites and places:
El Estrecho/El Bartolo Calle San Lazaro
This is probably the tiniest street in Marbella, with these two bars offering excellent tapas in a lively atmosphere.
Bar San Francisco Calle Aduar
Young people gather here for fish tapas such as bacalao con tomate (cod with tomato).
Altamirano Plaza Altamirano
Try the sardines and the fried fish. This is a lovely •terrace during the summertime.
Bar California Calle Malaga
Very popular, both with foreigners and locals, due to the quality fresh fish.
El Cordobes Plaza Puente Malaga
Another good spot for fresh sardines, with a variety of decent local dishes.
Los Cañizos/El Canuto La Bajadilla, Puerto Pesquero
A few old fishermen’s houses remain. In two of them, you can eat fish at very reasonable prices in an authentic setting.
El Tanguito Calle Buitrago
In this 200-year-old house, you can try typical Argentinean dishes upstairs, then, afterwards, enjoy a variety of electronic music in the bar with exotic patio downstairs.
Townhouse Calle Alamo
A labyrinth of rooms and patios, where a perfect harmony is created between classical and modern design, in addition to the mix of contemporary dance and pop music.
El Frutero Calle Aduar
A lively three-floor bar with a great terrace for hot evenings.
La Teteria Calle Ancha
Distinctive and original teas and pastries.
La Mazzmorra Calle Peral
Ideal for the first drinks on a long night, with a good music choice on the turntables.
La Lavadora Calle Peral
Lovely bar with Moroccan specialities, as well as milkshakes. The place is divided into several cosily decorated floors, with a pleasant atmosphere.
Hostal Bar El Gallo Calle Lobatas
For a good sleep at reasonable prices, as well as for the typical homemade kitchen specialties.
Albergue Africa Avenida del Trapiche
Youth hostel with patio and pool, rooms for up to six people.
Cine Club Buñuel Instituto Rio Verde Calle Notario Luis Oliver
This is the place to go if you want to see more independent and original-language films.
Heading east from the centre, you soon arrive at Playa del Cable, where a variety of local feasts and parties are organised in the summer. Further east, you’ll find good beaches like Playa de Rfo Real (3 km), Playa de la Residencia Tiempo Libre (10 km), and Playa y Dunas de Cabopino (15 km). This last beach is a beautiful nature reserve, and it holds moving sand dunes, unique on this stretch of the Mediterranean. Incidentally, nudism is permitted here.
For more rural trips, we advise you to take the road to Ojen along the splendid mountain range of the Sierra de las Nieves. Look out for signs pointing to Refugio de Jaunar (15 km). At the end of the road, you can take one of the various routes, where you can see Africa, the Sierra Nevada, and the coast on a clear day. There’s a possibility of spotting wildlife such as mountain goats, otters, and birds of prey. Another option is visiting the enchanting white village of Monda, then following a country road to Istan, where more hiking trails lead you to the source of Rio Verde, a hidden place of natural wonder.
LA MORADA MAS HERMOSA
Calle Montenebros 16, Marbella. tel. +34 952 924467 fax +34 952 774900 Web www.lamoradamashermosa.com
Beautifully situated in the old town of Marbella, this little family-run hotel has five elegantly decorated rooms, some with terraces overlooking the city. Room number 5 is an ancient tower, giving it that extra romantic touch. The traditional architecture is preserved very well, and – together with its charming details – the place breathes an air of true tranquillity.
The hotel organises cultural activities such as five-day courses in painting techniques. As mentioned, you’re in the city centre, but the sea, the harbour, and the beach are all only a five-minute walk away. Let us take you through the narrow old centre and beyond…
Museo del Grabado Calle Hospital de Bazan
An outstanding collection of engravings and prints by artists such as Dali, Miro, and Picasso. The museum frequently organises all sorts of lectures, concerts, and courses.
Cortijo de Miraflores Calle Jose Luis Morales y Marin
This old restored oil mill houses a museum, an exposition room for contemporary art, and several conference rooms. Old and new are fused wonderfully well here.
Museo del Bonsai Parque de la Represa
Japanese-style museum with one of the best collections of bonsai trees in the world. Here, you can admire a fully-grown, 200-yeaz-old tree, measuring less than half a metre.
Churreria Ramon Plaza de los Naranjos
A breakfast classic in the old town with its famous churros (pastries).
Altamirano Plaza Altamirano
The most typical establishment to get seafood.
El Estrecho Calle San Lazaro
A wide variety of local dishes, good and quick service.
La Taberna del Pinxto/La Venecia Avenida Miguel Cano
Situated in the same avenue, both score high on the “great tapas” list.
Casa Vasca Calle Padre Enrique Cantos
If you’re up for a full Spanish experience, you can enjoy the marvellous Basque tapas from the north in a southern setting here.
El Relicario Calle Concha San Pedro
Delightful decor, offering one of the most imaginative menus on the coast.
El Puerto Deportivo city port
Several good bars, restaurants, and little clubs, with a good mix of Spaniards and tourists. There is a diving club next to Catalunia, a little restaurant with great homemade food.
On Saturday morning, we recommend the street market of Puerto Banus: handicrafts, second-hand objects, antiques, and new stuff. Monday mornings, there is a market in the recinto ferial, with fresh vegetables, as well as a diverse range of local products.
open 24 hours/day in cyberspace, http://arunda.soizadesign.com
All his life, Salva Soiza has lived between Honda and Marbella. He first worked as a social educator for the town hall of Marbella, and in the mid-nineties, he became a Web designer.
In 2003, he created an interactive Web site for the Serrania de Ronda and the Costa del Sol, where visitors can contribute all sorts of initiatives and information. The visitors deliver most of the content, which gives this page a rather objective feel. You can find hiking routes, pictures of bandoleros and monuments, traveller’s info, with hotels, bars, and restaurants, and lots of information about the white villages around Ronda. When Salva is not staring at his computer monitor, you’ll probably find him here:
Restaurante Japones Bonsai Puente de Malaga
A peculiar little restaurant has recently opened in the old quarter of fishermen and miners. An older, but very enjoyable Japanese couple serve delicious sushi, as well as a great seaweed salad and several hot Asian dishes. The very reasonable prices and its no-nonsense setting make it even more recom- mendable.
Bar Restaurante La Traiña Avenida Severo Ochoa 49
Once owners of an old fishing boat, this family-run business has become a classic for fish and seafood in Marbella. A wide selection of shellfish at your disposal – ask for the ones you’ve never heard of before – makes it well worth the risk. The restaurant’s entrance is actually the cabin of their ancient boat.
Restaurante La Relojera La Bajadilla, Calle Fuengirola 16
Situated between the old fishermen’s houses, this is another truly authentic bar and restaurant to have fresh fish. Try the espeto de sardines (sardines grilled on the beach, but only in season), the chipirones (baby squid), coquinas (clams), and atun plancha (grilled tuna).
Restaurante Mexicano Kaktus Plaza de los Descalzos 16
Salva from Ronda and Rebeka from Swedon opened this cosy restaurant in 2003, together with Mexican cook Omar. Ask for the daily specials, and don’t forget to try the fajitas and burritos. Some nights, a mariachi might appear; on other nights, the place turns into a lively cocktail bar, where margaritas and tequilas smoothly find their way into thirsty throats.
Bar El 7 de Copas Paseo de Bias Infante
A great terrace in summer, where you can enjoy a wide selection of roasted meats, pitas, and imaginative salads. Inside, you’ll be able to see small exhibitions by local artists, while every first Friday of the month you can catch a jazz concert held by Joseli and Manoli, who run this place with a large history in Ronda’s day- and nightlife.
Bar Restaurante Casa Romero Calle Cordoba 34, near train station
It is rather complicated to make a choice from over 60 typical dishes. Go for the costillatas fritas (fried cutlets), rabo de toro (oxtail), or any of the revueltos (mixed omelettes).
Alameda de San Francisco, Ronda
open Tuesday – Friday, 1-5 pm and 7.30 pm-midnight
Twelve years ago, my wife and I started restaurant Casa Maria – the house of Maria, named after my daughter. We specialise in red meat and wine, but my personal favourite dish is the ensalada de bacalao. When you come to Casa Maria, order “un poco de todo” (a bit of everything), and I will treat you to a sampler of the best we have that night, in small portions. The best place in Ronda is La Alameda San Francisco, where we also have our restaurant. In the summer, it is filled with terraces of the various restaurants. The trees will give some shade during the day, and therefore young and old like to hang around here to talk, to watch the tourists, to have a drink, or eat some food. Besides that, it is next to the big wall that used to be the gate where Felipe came through to re-conquer Ronda from the Moors. So: lots of history on a square just outside of the city wall. On this square, you’ll see typical scenes from Spanish life. Ronda is a beautiful town, and I am happy to live and work here. For a perfect romantic night, you should go out of town – with a bottle of wine – to the chapel of the Virgen de la Cabeza and enjoy the view of Ronda while the sun sets and the town slips into the night. It is absolutely magnificent. This is my personal culinary route in Ronda:
Restaurante Pedro Romero Calle Virgen de la Paz
Next to the arena, this is named after the man from Ronda who invented bullfighting in arenas. When having dinner there, you’ll find yourself surrounded by a typical Ronda interior, with the complete history of bullfighting on the walls. Order a cordero asado (roasted lamb), and you will taste Spain’s kitchen at its best.
Bar Jerez Paseo Bias Infante 2
Although it has many tourists, this is one of my favourites, especially for their pate, which I eat almost every time there, because it’s delicious. Their menu is typically traditional Andalucian food, and afterwards you can take a walk through the park around the arena.
Las Caballerias Calle Setenil 3
Their higaditos (chicken livers) are really good, so get some when you’re there!
Hermano Perez on the corner of Avenidas Granada and Espinillos
In Andalucia, a lot of people do not have breakfast at home, but go to a bar to eat. Here, you’ll find a good variety of bocadillos (sandwiches) and, of course, churros (pastries with coffee or hot chocolate).
Bar Maestro Calle Espinel 7
Nice selection of local tapas and Spanish breakfast. In the summer, their small terrace is great for observing the passing crowd, chatting, and shopping on the busy Calle Espinel.
EL CHOQUE IDEAL
Calle Espiritu Santo 9, Ronda. Tel. +34 952 161918
El Choque Ideal – with its recording studio, bar, and art gallery – used to be part of En Frente Arte. In 2003, new owners Dirk and Gebke took over and have given new energy to the project. Through the years, El Choque/En Frente Arte lias welcomed several guests who left their murks in Ronda. For example, Jules, the former drummer of dEUS, made the mosaic interior of El Choque. When Soundsurfer was recording, they found the men’s room acoustically interesting and therefore recorded some vocals and even drums in the toilet. When in Ronda, we would definitely recommend that you rent a car, because the surroundings of Ronda are worthwhile visiting. Setenil, for example, is Andalucia at its best: houses carved out of rocks, great tapas, and views to dream about…
Bar La Tasca Calle Cuevas del Sol 71, next to the river that runs through Setenil
Here, you should have a pimiento de piquillo (fish and pepper). Absolutely delicious.
Another great place is El Chorro. When you follow the road to Campillos, you’ll see the exit to Malaga after 40 km on your right. A small road will bring you to the highway, where you take the turn “embalses” just before Ardales. Follow the road to the lake. At the sign “El Chorro” on your right, you go straight on towards the camping signs. Just before a small tunnel there is a dirt track upwards. Follow it, and park at the restaurant. Just sit there and enjoy. After a beer, you can walk down from the terrace to the lake, where you can swim. You won’t regret it… Even better is if you take some food to grill, because at the lake you have BBQs that you can use. Be careful driving back, though.
If you do not have a car, go for a walk around town. When you leave El Choque, you go to the right, into the dead-end street. Walk into it, and follow the dirt track down to the valley. You end up at the banos arabes, where you walk up again. You cross the bridge and follow the stairs next to the gorge. At the end, you turn left. After 100 metres, you will find on your right:
Shafar Calle los Remedios
The sandwiches and tapas here are amazing.
Say hello to Selma and Gonzalo who run the place. Then walk towards the Puente Nueve. After the bridge, take the first right up to a square. There, you can take the stairs down to the gorge, take some photos for your family back home, and then follow the dirt track to the left. You’ll reach a road of cobblestones, which you follow to the left around town. It will end up at the square San Francisco, where you should hit…
Bar Restaurante Almocabar Plaza San Francisco
The best tapas in town. They serve all kinds of small rolls with fish, meat, or veggies. Amazingly nice. Ask for a chileno (avocado with meat) or el chilly (spicy pork).
Bodega San Francisco Plaza San Francisco
Don’t forget to try their pinchos de gambas (prawns) and croquetas caseras (homemade breaded specialties).
At night, Ronriu has a heaven full of stars on offer and, of course, Spanish discos. A couple of bars also have DJs every now and then. Take a look at…
Kopas Colin Rios Rosas 9
Here, deep house nights are set up, as well as other activities. Say hi to Paco, the owner, wlm always has a smile on his face
Limbo Plaza Carmen Abela
Several music styles throughout the week, with changing DJs.
Of course, Ronda is a great town to walk around, but you’ll find the real Andalucian feel outside of Ronda. I love to eat in the villages near Ronda.
La Cazalla Tajo del Abanico, Apartado de Correos 160
As far as I’m concerned, the best cook in Ronda is Rodrigo, who works in Hotel Cazalla, located in a beautiful area. If you call Rodrigo (+34 952 114175) in advance, he can make you a dinner you will never forget.
Hotel la Fuente de la Higuera
Another hotel with a great kitchen is also here. Call in advance to see if you can have lunch or dinner there ( + 34 952 114355). When you leave Ronda towards Sevilla, you take the turn to Badillo (just after kilometre post 117), where you also see the sign for the hotel and follow the main road.
Venta el Pelistre.
This is a typical Andalucian venta, where you can have the real food of the campo. It’s near hotel La Fuente, so follow the same road. Where the main road bends to the right and the hotel is straight ahead, you instead go to the right and follow the road for another kilometre. On your right, in a curve, you’ll find this place.
Venta Cueva del Gato on the road to Benaojoan from Ronda
Cueva del Gato is a huge natural cave with a waterfall and small lake. The water there is amazingly cold for swimming, which is, of course, great in the summer. The venta next to it serves ajoblanco (soup with garlic), and it’s worth the trip alone for the soup.
EN FRENTE ARTE
Calle Real 40, Ronda. tel. +34 952 879088 Web www.enfrentearte.com
Founded in 1997, our guesthouse opened its doors with the idea to set up a place where people could relax and forget about their daily routines. All this in an atmosphere without any form of restrictions. That’s why you’ll find our self-service bar open 24 hours a day, our break- fast/lunch buffet available all day… everything included in the price of the room. Enjoy our astonishing views, lovely terraces, tropical hall with its exotic birds and fishes, pool, sauna, billiards, and more. Over the years, we have organised various music festivals and distinctive cultural projects. Several artists and production companies used our installations for seminaries or the development of their activities. Check out our Web site. You shouldn’t miss the following places if you’re ever in Ronda:
Bar Los Canos Calle Real
Juan, who runs this place, is a funny little character who will speak to you in four or five different languages once he sees you’re a foreigner.
The walls are full of pictures of famous people who have stayed in Ronda, and again, Juan will be glad to tell you more about them. He is the kind of “starfucker” we can appreciate, as well as the tapas he has on his never-changing menu. Classics include the centollo (cold crab), boquerones en vinagre (sour anchovies), aceitunas (olives), and chorizo al vino (sausage in wine). Tell Juan you’re very famous in your country, and he’ll make you sign his guestbook.
La Lechugita Calle Los Remedios
One of the most classic tapa bars is La Lechugita, maintaining its original atmosphere and decoration. Watch out for the little sign saying “Prohibido el Cante,” an old strategy of barkeepers to shut up the drunken singers. You should definitely try the lechugita (vinegar salad, after which the bar was named), callos, masita, chorizo (different meats)… Basically, all of the tapas are authentic.
Yes indeed: dEUS is on the wall, in a picture taken in this proper bar during the recording of their album ‘The Ideal Crash.’
Bar David Calle Los Remedios
Run by owner Antonio… We’ve never asked why it’s not called bar Antonio. There are about five different tapas here, and again, try them all, especially the sardines when they are available.
Ask Antonio for his games with spikes and wooden blocks, real 19th century entertainment. Antonio himself breeds all the birds in this bar, and they sing along, together with the sound of the everpresent television, converting the place into a great spot to watch a Spanish league football game.
Los Cazadores Avenida de Malaga, at the end of Calle Espinel
One of Ronda’s best places to eat fresh fish. You can order raciones (portions) of different fish and vegetables. Check out the concha finas (shellfish), berengena frita (fried aubergine), navajas (shellfish), atun plancha (grilled tuna), chipirones (baby squid), and the recommcndal lomt of the house. Go early (before two pm and nine pm), because this place is mostly fully booked
Faustino Calle Santa Cecilia
You can go at any time for a local wine, vino do Malaga y tinto de verano, and a wide range of typical tapas. Mati is the hardest-working woman in tapa land and has this great friendly drive while taking 25 different orders by heart. Preferred dishes include huevo de codorniz (little fried eggs), setas (fried fungi), serranito guay (a warm sandwich), champinones (mushrooms)… The best thing is to ask Mati or Faustino behind the bar for good advice.
Hotel Restaurante Alavera de los Banos behind the bridge on Calle Real, downstairs
Apart from its cosy hotel, this lovely place also has a splendid garden patio, where you can enjoy wonderful dishes, in which local and international cuisines are gently fused.
La Gota del Vino Trece Calle Sevilla
This tapa restaurant, definitely different, offers a daily changing menu of creative tapas and a wide selection of distinctive local and international wines.
Tragabuches Calle Jose Aparicio, near the bullring
This modern-style restaurant is a pioneer in new Andalucian cuisine, having received numerous culinary awards in its young history. Its gastronomic menu is a twelve-course flavour banquet you won’t easily find anywhere else.
In the centre, you should pay a visit to the Casa del Rey Moro. Especially its mines are worth the exhausting visit. Basically, the whole trip around Ronda’s famous cliffs, leading you from La Alameda Park to the end of the old city and the barrio San Francisco, is a must.
If you’re up for a lazy drive in the mountains with some rural stops, you can take the road to Sevilla. After about 15 km, head for Grazalema, which you’ll reach after a winding 20-minute trip. Astonishing views over the mountains from the village centre with lots of bars and restaurants to take a break. Now, taking the road to Zahara de la Sierra, this trip becomes a cyclist’s nightmare, but with the car there is plenty of room to enjoy the breathtaking scenery, with the splendid lake of Zahara down in the valley.
Once you’ve arrived at the lake’s border road, follow the signs to Zahara. On that same road, you’ll see signs for El Vinculo, a very ancient oil mill restored over the last years. Owner Juan will tell you the mill’s history, and you can taste wines and local products in Juan’s shop. He also knows great hiking trails around the Zahara area.
Scoring very high on the romantic scale is Zahara, especially around sunset…
The colours of the lake and the cosy atmosphere in the village call for more tapas and wine. Back to Ronda is another 20 minutes by car. You don’t have to go back through Grazalema; just follow the lake road that will lead you to the main road to Ronda.
Calle los Remedios, Ronda
When I decided to open my heladeria with my friend Roberto, we had already lived in Ronda for two years. We visited the town for the first time in December 2000… I loved it… and decided to live there. We named our place ‘Gelateria Verona,’ and we serve you authentic Italian ice cream, homemade by me and my colleague Roberto. When you yearn for real Italian tiramisu with an Italian espresso, look no further.
I have to thank the people that I got to know bit by bit in my new life here, and I have to thank Ronda as a city for its great atmosphere.
For someone who visits Ronda for a couple of days, it is almost impossible to get to know the sensations and emotions that this city
transmits. but you should at least try it.
I think the best places to go are:
Hotel San Gabriel Calle Marques de Moctezuma 19 This precious hotel is situated in La Ciudad, the oldest part of Ronda. It has a few rooms in an atmospheric romantic style. All rooms look different and make you feel like the king of town. The whole area here is great; you can get lost in the marvellous narrow streets that form the ciudad. The wide labyrinth used to be the old Arab medina of Ronda centuries ago.
La Esquina Calle Los Remedios
Great typical tapas of the Andalucian cuisine.
Bar David Calle Los Remedios
Funny little grill with excellent meat.
El Lechugita Calle Los Remedios
This good-quality tapa bar hasn’t changed since
its opening in the sixties.
Shafar just around the corner from Lechugita
You’ll find all kinds of different sandwiches and
pitas in this tiny bar.
Nonno Pepe Calle Nueva
Being Italian myself, of course I know where to go for the best pizza. Owner Giuseppe will serve you real authentic Italian pizza, the best in town.
Before dinner, yon should stop in the park of La Alameda and enjoy the sunset there. You’ll he stunned, again and again, to see the sun disiippem behind the mountains around Ronda every day, and it’s the perfect moment to decide to stay for a few more days…
Calle Ronda 10, Arriate (Ronda)
Los Caireles opened its doors in 1956.
The old-timers knew it as the bar with the movies, because, apart from the bar, the first cinema in the village was here: ‘Cine Ideal.’
You could eat some tapas here, watch a movie, and finish your evening with some wine in the bodega. When they showed a popular picture in those days, people even brought their own chairs to sit behind the last row of seats.
Local businesses showed their commercials, with slides projected at the beginning of each movie. Frequently, the enthusiastic spectators sang along with the songs during the films.
In 1988, they decided to convert the cinema into a tablao de flamenco, and they started organising all kinds of flamenco concerts and evenings where all of the villagers could sing, act, or just
improvise. At the start of the nineties, they closed the big hall and turned part of it into a cosy, clubby bar. With a more diverse program, you can now experience a DJ session as well as a traditional Cuban show or flamenco gig. Many bands have passed by, such as Color Humano, Buscemi, and many more. In the afternoon, they serve all kinds of teas and coffees, the Arab mint tea being one of their classics.
Los Caireles is situated in Arriate, 6 km from Ronda. This pleasant village has very few tourists, which gives it a quiet and more authentic feel. Two brothers, Manolo and Roberto, run Los Caireles, and they literally know the whole village. Young and old come and go here. These are the places the brothers recommend in their village and beyond:
Bar Manolo Calle Ronda 42
Typical Andalucian bar still in its original state.
La Bodeguita Plaza Diaz Mena 19
All kinds of local wines, straight out of the barrel. Ask for jamon (ham) and the hot tapas, for example setas (mushrooms) or chipirones (squid).
Bar Villanueva Calle Marbella 17 A variety of delicious local tapas.
Bar Cafe El Albarra Calle Albarra 2
Ancient bar where the older people still play cards
and dominoes. Great coffee.
Taberna Manolo Plaza de la Constitucion 21 Again, here you’ll find all kinds of tapas. Try the slight spicy callos (meat and beans), and get advice from Manolo, who is a funny character.
El Almacen Calle Homo 4
This old grain warehouse is a perfect place to enjoy local cuisine, as most products are from the village itself.
Restaurant El Cortijillo Los Prados,
Calle Poco Aceite at 4 km from Arriate, direction Setenil An old, small farm serving a mix of Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes. The house salad is delicious, as well as the exquisite lamb. Ask for the daily specials.
Hostal Venta El Chozo
just at the beginning of the village on the main road from Ronda Apart from their restaurant with homemade dishes, rooms are available at affordable rates.
Venta El Pelitre 3 km from Arriate, on a windy road through fields, which everybody knows
Rural restaurant with its own vegetable fields, so the food is always fresh.
Venta La Venta
alter 4 km on the road from Ronda to El Burgo The shepherds always came here to eat in this top rural spot. Sometimes, you can still see the herds of animals, waiting outside until the shepherd finishes his lunch.
Manolo and Roberto know a couple of captivating nature trips on foot and by mountain bike.
The boat thing to do is to ask them personally whore to go, because these paths are not easy to find. In summer, they can explain how to find hidden riverbanks, where you can swim in pure water.
Calle Cano 1
Calle Arenal (feria)
Two great clubs in nightly Cordoba with different and contemporary music sessions…
If you’re up for some shaking, after the tapas and wines, La Comuna is the ideal spot. Several DJs spin the decks throughout the whole week.
La Mode is a perfect place to close out the night. Here, the survivors of the night gather, dancing to funky beats. Frequently, concerts are held, open to all musical styles. In summer, you can chill out on their lovely and fresh terrace, while the rising sun slightly lightens up the city centre. We hope you’ll enjoy our following selection of where to go to in our city:
Salinas Puerta de Almodovar Tundidores
In the Juderia, where a visit to the Mezquita, the synagogue, and the Alcazar is an absolute must, you can take a break in this typical bar for some local
wines and boquerones en vinagre (sour anchovies).
Bar Correo Calle Deanes
This is the smallest bar in town, but they do sell the most beer. A classic, even more so because of its tapas served out of the local cannery.
El Blason Calle Jose Zorrilla
Great for seafood tapas. Check out the gambas rebozadas (‘prawns in overcoats’).
Taberna la Verdad Calle Jose Zorrilla
Try the flamenquin (ham and hot cheese),
the house specialty.
El Juramento Calle Juramento On the favourites list are papas bravas (hot potatoes) and croquetas de espinacas (spinach croquettes).
Bar Moriles Calle Antoino Maura
Fried meats, some served with a spicy tomato
sauce. The sangria here is Cordoba’s most popular.
El Alma Calle Teruel
Don’t miss the incredible atun plancha (grilled tuna).
Amore Bonapaste Calle Reyes Catolicos This Italian restaurant is so authentically Italian that even their compatriots travel far to have dinner here.
La Gusa Oiario de Cordoba Amaltea Ronda de Isasa
Most certainly two of the best and most original menus the city has to offer.
Dona Elena Calle Alcalde Sanz Noguer
El Albaicin Calle Alcalde Sanz Noguer
With a variety of outstanding local tapas and
tablas, both bars are worth a visit.
Baco Plaza del Zoco
One of the best selections of local and national wines.
La Espiga Calle San Pablo 1 La Amapola Ronda de Isasa
Two bars with a lively ambience, where people come together for their first drinks before hitting the dance floor.
Velvet Calle Alfaros Pequeno Club Calle Alfaros 3
Two smaller clubs, ideal to get your boots shaking.
La Casa de los Azulejos Calle Tendidores Hostal Lineros Calle Lineros These are our two recommendations for your overnight stay, both of them near the Plaza de la Corredera. Don’t forget to try churros (typical Spanish hot pastries) in the plaza in the morning.
We would like to mention a couple of places outside of Cordoba. These are nice little trips to the countryside. Wandering through these villages, you’ll soon encounter
El X Cerro Muriano (village)
Just ask Juanjo, owner of this marvellous spot, what’s on the daily menu. Say no more.
Museo del Aceite Castro del Rio (village)
This lovely little museum explains the history and production process of the famous olive oil.
La Taberna Almodovar del Rio (village)
Run by a musician of the band Deneuve.
The meat is delicious, and be sure to ask for the house specials.
Carretera Palma del Rio, at km 5, very close to Medina Zahara, Cordoba
El Quinon is situated on the Palma del Rio, at kilometre 5 and very close to the Moorish archaeological city of Medina Azahara. This alternative centre features an organic restaurant, concert hall, and open spaces for all kinds of artistic outings. Specialties on the international menu are lamb prepared in the wooden oven and couscous, as well as vegetarian dishes. Apart from live music on Saturdays, you can enjoy listening to a mix of jazz, fusion, and ethnic music on other days. In summer, starting in June every Friday and Saturday, a market is set up on the beautiful patios and terraces, where you can find a variety of local ecological products and craftsmanship, together with small performances. El Quinon is glad to send you to the following sites and places in Cordoba:
El Sotano/La Paloma Plaza de la Corredera This square is one of the oldest squares in Spain, and under its arches you’ll find multiple bars, restaurants, and a wide variety of local art studios and shops with a regular programme of cultural activities.
La Guadalupana Calle de la Esparteria
Typical ancient house in Cordoba, stylishly mixed
with a Mexican flavour. Delicious Tex-Mex dishes. Try to find a table on the patio, with its attractive lemon trees, where mariachi bands sometimes give their best.
Jazz Cafe Culln de In I sperterin
Small and cosy Jazz club with live music on
La Pergola Jardinee Duque de Riviis
Good spot for tapes and drinks, with live jazz in
the open air during summer
Amaltea Ronde de Isastt 10
Charming restaurant near the Mezquita with good service at reasonable prices
La Rivera Ple/e del Pont)
If you want to try t he typical kitchen of Cordoba, this is the place to be.
Taberna Pluterott Celle Romero Berros
Ideal for authentic tapas and elegant wines, with a
La Jaima Celle Cdspedes
Moorish styled teahouse full of details with excellent Arabic pastries and other culinary rarities.
Sala Africa Recinto Ferial
Nightclub specialised in rock music and concerts.
Calle Alfonso XIII 3, Cordoba,
open weekdays 9-3am, weekends 5pm -4am
The “good feeling” bar of Cordoba was opened in 1995 by Lola and Perry because there was simply nowhere else they felt at home or where they could listen to the music they were hearing from the UK, France, the vaults of Soul Jazz, Blue Note, and Greensleeves, as well as their immense collection of vinyl from the sixties and the seventies. The bar is hard to define: “Where Berlin meets Havana,” according to Time Out. Its “less is more” interior is open, but inviting, avoiding the straight-out-of-the-catalogue white wall, moulded plastic, and stainless steel look like the plague. Or, as the Daily Telegraph put it: “The coolest bar in town.” Wednesday is concert day on the small stage in the sound lounge. From flamenco to funk via hip-hop and punk, one Thursday a month is party night, but we never know which Thursday. Fridays and Saturdays, an assortment of DJs passes through until late, and Sunday afternoon is the recovery session. Enjoy our recommendations…
Pisto Plaza San Miguel
Good variation of tapas, together with bullfight memorabilia and truly local characters.
Bodegas Campo Calle Luciano
Original bodega with an excellent wine collection. After a fino (dry sherry), take a walk through the splendid patios, where you can even admire a private chapel.
La Gamba Dorada Plaza de la Iglesia Wide selection of prawns and several more delicious seafood tapas.
La Guadalupana Calle Esparteria
An excellent restaurant with an exotic patio, resulting in the perfect atmosphere for Mexican beer and food.
El Guarro Lepanto Calle Cinco Caballeros Although out of the centre, this is absolutely the best place for seafood in town.
Comedor Andalusi Plaza Abades
Sniff the real ‘Andalus vibe.’ Specialised in all kinds of Moorish dishes, as well as teas and juices.
Limbo Calle Juan Rufo Velvet Calle Alfaros Amapola Ronda de Isasa
All three of these are good spots to get in that right mood. Great choice of music through the speakers.
Hostal Los Arcos Caile Romero Barros
East of the Mezquita and a good budget room
for the night.
Casa de los Azulejos Caile Tendidores
Big, old townhouse tastefully reconverted into
a small hotel. Worth a try.
Hamman Caile Cardenal Gonzalez
Try the Turkish bath, and dream away in thin
ancient haven of peace and pleasure or pamper
yourself with a massage. Reservations may bo
Cafeteria Roldan Caile Maranon
You’ll find a variety of breads, toasts, and
pastries here for breakfast or brunch.
Calle Malaga 3, next to botanic garden, Granada tel. +34 958 271598
Beautifully situated near the botanic garden and the cathedral, Botanico, with its minimal but spacious decoration, is a place that combines Mediterranean cuisine with international influences. Open all day, people also come for a late breakfast, a coffee on our terrace, or some drinks in the evening. Our menu with more then 40 dishes, as well as our daily specials, is available throughout the day and includes, for example, duck with mango, quesadillas, teriyaki tuna, various creative salads, and more. A very large mix of people in an atmosphere that can change during the same day, depending on the time. All appreciate a well-selected music choice with jazz, electronic, and Brazilian sounds. Let us show you our favourite places in Granada:
Iberos y Patagonicos Escudo del Carmen 36 ^ Modern cuisine with plenty of creativity and pleas- I’ ant service.
Yamato Colcha 7, tel
- +34 958 228370 Kirin Parraga 9, tel. +34 958 260096
Two Japanese restaurants run by the same owner with a more or less similar menu. Apart from the excellent sushi and sashimi, you should try the seaweed salad, the tuna and beef tataki, la dorada Kirin, and the tea ice cream.
Altamira Avenida Andaluces 2, tel. +34 958 272908 This classic Italian restaurant serves fresh pasta and delicious homemade crepes in a typical setting with more than reasonable prices.
Tendido Uno Avenida Dr. Oloriz 25, tel. +34 958 272302 Located in the bullring, you can enjoy classic Andalucian kitchen while seated on a great terrace.
La Cantina Mexicana
Cuesta del Realejo 1, tel. +34 958 229721
If you’re looking for a tasty margarita and some fajitas, this is your place.
Pena la Plateria Placeta de Toqueros 7
Great views in an authentic setting, and especially
the bacalao (cod) is worth a try.
Meson El Agua Plaza Aljibe de Trillo 7, tel. +34 958 224356 Splendid garden with a variety of fondues and original salads.
Casa Torcuato Pages 31, tel. +34 958 202818 Specialised in fried fish, stews, and soups.
An interesting mix of locals and tourists.
La Bodeguita de al Lado Tendillas de Santa Paula 4 La Tana Rosario 9
Two bars run by two sisters, both with an excellent selection of wines and tapas. If you want to know anything about flamenco, the sisters will be glad to tell you more.
Los Diamantes Calle Navas 28
Real Andalucian vibes with exquisite fish tapas.
Las Castanedas Elvira 15
Antigua bodega Castaneda Almireceros 1
Two taverns next to each other offering a wide
selection of embutidos (cold meats).
Aliatar-Los Caracoles Plaza Aliatar
You should definitely try the caracoles picante
(hot, spicy snails) here.
Casa Enrique Acera del Darro 8
The best tapas in town. A rather small place,
so you mostly eat standing.
Antonio Perez Calle Goya
More good wines and classic tapas to be found here.
Cunini Plaza Pescaderia 14
Without a doubt, a top spot for fresh seafood and delicious fish.
El Candela Calle Pavaneras 25
One of our all time favourites, with an excellent combination of good music and tapas.
Taberna El Espejo Calle Elvira El Circulo Calle Elvira
Both bars are good spots for ice-cold canas (small beers) and tapas to start off the night.
El Rinconcillo Hospital de Santa Ana
A very small bar, but with a lovely terrace in
La Sabanilla San Sebastian 14
One of the oldest bars in town, with a loyal and never-changing clientele.
Segunda Edicion Placeta de los Lobos 9 Pop music in all of its aspects: techno pop, Britpop, power pop, all with a young and enthusiastic public.
Afrodisia Calle Zafra, Web www.afrodisiaclub.com They define themselves as “undergroundblack- sounds,” and we can go along with that.
Six Colors Tendillas de Santa Paula 6
Definitely the best spot for the gay-oriented
El Rincon de San Pedro Carrera del Darro 12 Incredible how a small place can host so many people dancing on every square centimetre.
Calle de la Paz 7 (Carretera de Armilla)
National and international bands and DJs regularly play here, one of Spain’s most famous clubs.
La Estrella Calle Cuchilleros
This minuscule bar offers up dated music, and because of its size, it’s always full.
Peaton Pub Socrates 25 Ruido Rosa Calle Sol
Rock fans shouldn’t miss these bars and go here for a couple of drinks.
La Tertulia Pintor Lopez Mezquita 3 A classic spot, though distinctive. Jazz, tango, lectures, poetry, and small concerts.
Sugarpop Gran Capitan 25
Open late. When others start closing, the nlglil goes on here.
Perfil Calle Rosario
Diverse atmosphere and a pleasant mix of people
El Baiiuelo Teteria Placeta de la Concepcion Teteria Banos Arabes Calle Santa Ana Both are elegant teahouses with a wide selection of Moorish delicacies.
La Oliva Calle Rosario
Hosted by a true gastronome, this shop offers a fantastic selection of organically grown Andalucian products such as wine, olive oil, cured meats, and a lot more.
Los Italianos Gran Via de Colon 4
Absolutely the best homemade ice cream in town.
Pasteleria Lopez Mezquita Calle Reyes Catolicos 29 An historic place to taste typical sweets and pastries from Granada and surroundings.
Casa Pasteles Plaza Larga
Another classic cafeteria with traditional delicacies.
Tea Shop East West Company Reyes Catolicos Here, you can buy a unique selection of teas and all accompanying accessories.
Leonarda Da Vicio/Outside Calle Cruz Pupus/Oxia Calle Gracia
Different, stylishly decorated shops for clothes, shoes, bags, and much more…
Dalbat Calle Duende
This shoe shop gently fuses moods from Paris and India in a very special setting.
El Rastro Palacio de Congresos
On Sunday mornings, this flea market holds all
sorts of kitsch, antiques, and curiosities.
Cine/Discoteca Granada 10 Carcel Baja In this old dancehall, movies are shown during the afternoon. Surprisingly, one can have a drink and smoke a cigarette during the movie. Check out this palace of kitsch.
Haman Banos Arabes Santa Ana 16 Aljibe Banos Arabes San Miguel Alta 41 The first place is a bit smaller, and both are beautiful and offer several baths and massages.
Calle Horno de Abad, Granada Web www.planta-baja.com closed from mid-June to September
Since its opening in 1982, Planta Baja has been more than just a venue. Its layout allows for simultaneous activities in separate spaces.
Hall a (upstairs) hosts small parties and offers a musical cocktail open to everyone each night, as long as they stimulate relaxed conversation: from underground sounds to bossanova, from subtle selections of tomorrow’s pop to careful cool jazz or neo-bop sessions. Hall b (downstairs) is two things: On the one hand, after midnight, it’s a perfect place for dancing, but before – normally around 10 pm – it always welcomes lovers of live music.
Planta Baja is a club with conceptual sessions: Thursdays are dedicated to lounge sounds, Fridays it’s time for electronicoclam, and Saturdays there’s the groovy funkclub.
The mix of resident and guest DJs generates a musical stream as varied as it is well defined. While avoiding the most extreme electronic tendencies, you can enjoy, all on the same night, rhythm & blues and ragamuffin, jazz funk and deep house, acid jazz and jungle. Prestigious national and international DJs and bands have given their best here: DJ Vadim, DJ Food, Chema AMA, DJ Professor Angel Dust,
DJ Clandestine, Watch TV, Kid Koala, Ramon Santana, Richard Thair, Baby G, Lord Aswood, Buscemi, DJ Kosmos, Malente, Death Cab For Cutie, Piano Magic, The Silos, Will Oldham, Frangoiz Breut, Jon Auer, Experience,
The Toasters, Vive la Fete, Mazarin, Gorky’s Zygotic Mynci, Lali Puna, Dave Gibbs, The Ladybug Transistor, The Chevelles, Big Soul, The Sneetches, Elliott Murphy, The Last Poets, Paul Collins, Jonathan Richman, The Bevis Frond, Los Planetas, Australian Blonde, Vancouvers, Sober, Sidonie, La Buena Vida, Astrud, Elios, Cooper, Atom Rhumba, Telefunken, Sex Museum, Nacho Vegas,
Chucho, Solo Los Solo…
Following is a trip compiled by Javier Guerrero and Enrique Novi (the former sound and light technician and the music programmer of the club):
The snow-tinted Sierra Nevada mountain range gives Granada its characteristic light, together with the contrast among the red colours of the town, the deep blue of the sky, and the silvery mirror of the hills. The result is a rare picture of beauty, the first in a list that will follow.
For this purpose, winter would be most udvisable, since a mixture of sounds, scents, and flavours will accompany this magical combination of colours. Once settled down, we should forget about using our car; the intricate urban design calls for relaxed strolling around. A useful alternative for the laziest ones would be the microbus. We first take you to the Albaicin area, representing the old Arab quarter of Medieval Granada, recently declared as ‘Mankind Patrimony’ by Unesco.
Bar Aixa Plaza Larga
In one of the busiest plazas, this is one of the most charismatic tapas and breakfast bars. The facilities include a unique terrace, which allows you to spend hours contemplating the itinerant crucible of the local characters. Like Pepe and Salva.
The former is extremely kind and welcoming, while the latter is a bit more surrealistic. We recommend breakfast with the olive oil and tomato toasts.
After noon, you shouldn’t miss the tapas and the house wine, homegrown in the Lecrin valley, all at popular prices.
Casa Pasteles Plaza Larga
This coffee bar is well known for its delicious desserts, pies, and ice cream. Try not to spend a long time there, and avoid getting too friendly with the waiters, unless you want to catch a real bite of the malafolla (arrogance and bad temper). The owners used to think that “if you want to piss, go out or go home.” The toilet was always out of order, until the local authorities urged them to be a little more civilised. Such peculiarities are also a part of the underestimated charm of this town.
Restaurante Kiki Plaza San Nicolas This terraced restaurant is a must when the weather is mild, either in the winter or in summer. We would recommend the migas (fried breadcrumbs served with sausages or fish), rabo de torro (bull tail), plato alpujarreho (eggs, potatoes, green peppers, chorizo, jamon, and black pudding), and the mozarabe-style sirloin steak. Mr. Kiki, the owner, will look at you the way Vito Corleone looked the day his son Santino was murdered.
He’s in genuine possession of that mentioned notorious local attitude known as malafolla.
Yet that deeply rooted essence of the granadino personality is something you will have to discover all by yourselves…
Casa Juanillo Sacromonte Camino Bajo del Sacromonte Artists such as Camaron de la Isla, Tomatito, and Jose Menese decorate the walls with pictures of the owner. The house specials include the Sacromonte omelette, aubergines, and garlic-flavoured pork. Juanillo and his family share a passion for flamenco. In this spot, you can actually breathe the scent of unforgettable nights of authentic flamenco’art.
At present, Juan also owns a cave for flamenco shows called Venta del Gallo, next to the restaurant. For tea or coffee, you can go to Los Faroles,
another gypsy cave, managed by a rather suggestive “sailor.”
Centro de Interpretaeion del Sacromonte
Sacromonte, Barranco de los Negros
The Sacromonte is full of zambras (caves), where you can enjoy flamenco. Here, in this centre, you can also listen to other kinds of music or see plays, films, and exhibitions. One of its main charms is to contemplate the Alhambra from a very unique perspective. Beautiful plants and flowers remind us of the long-gone splendour of the Arab gardens such as the Generalifo. More info can be found at www.sacromontegranada.com.
Pena Flamenca “El Nino de las Almendras”
Calle Tifia, at the bottom ol tho Albalcln aioa Let us introduce you to our friend Pope Ferrer, aka “El Nino”, a real aficionado fully dedicated to flamenco, who owns one of the most unusual bars in the neighbourhood. This is a late-night, after- hours bar – or rather we should say a portion of his own house with the sole purpose of night entertainment. Under tho right circumstances, our friend will start by singing bulerias, solea, and malaguenas. Gifted with a high-pitched voice, his singing is really unorthodox, and altogether he is a most peculiar artist. His picture gallery deserves all praise, and all the big names hang there. Newcomers are usually welcome, especially if they show good manners. It’s even better if your group
includes women, El Nino’s second passion after lliimenco.
El Rincon de San Pedro Albaicin Bajo, Carrera del Darro 8 This night bar has an amazing balcony that looks onto the river. A comfortable and modern atmosphere of sensual freedom is created around an elegant and impeccable selection of electronic music.
Upsetter Bar Albaicin Bajo, Carrera del Oarro 7 Once known as the Upsetter Reggae Club, this place has gradually opened up to other roots styles, resulting in the flamenco Mondays hosted by DJ Vinagre, exotic swing Tuesdays, reggae on Wednesdays and Thursdays, plus soul and Northern soul on Fridays… all alternative music on offer, far from mainstream fashions. This is all a good reflection of the spirit of Enrique Bonggo, the manager. If you ask to see him, he will be delighted to take care of you. He might even treat you to whatever he’s got around at the moment.
Bar La Estrella/Estrellados
Plaza de Cuchilleros/Marques de Falces
Two places with the same concept: mighty musical fun bars, both managed by Mr. Mauri, and we should definitely add him to the freak gallery.
These are inescapable spots for any outsider revellers. The original one, La Estrella, has survived many a night, and for many years it has been the ideal place to listen to rhythm & blues on
weekdays. Both Estrellas are places to descend upon, forget about time, and go all the way. If you are into funk jazz, electronic bossa, sheer rock, or flamenco, these are definitely the places to be. Open daily, try to avoid the weekends in order to catch a more human, more ‘Mauri-ish’ feel.
Don’t forget that both are narrow places.
And now let’s go for a long stroll, get some physical exercise, and get rid of the night’s toxins. Starting at the Plaza Nueva, we take the Carrera del Darro, and – before reaching the Museo Arqueologico, a most remarkable building with the finest art collections inside – you will find the Clarisas convent. It’s not open for visitors, but you can buy some of their delicious cakes and pastries. Further on, you’ll reach the Paseo de los Tristes. It is usually packed and is particularly charming on cool summer nights. We recommend the bar Rabo de Nube for a candlelit evening.
Hotel Casa Morisca Cuesta de la Victoria 9 tel.+ 34 958 22 11 00
Designed under inspiration and utter respect for the authentic history of house building in this ancient town. This is the project of an architect who was sensitive enough to rebuild one of the many Arab-period mansions, which suffered from total abandon and neglect (Web www.hotelcasamorisca.com).
Turning right, cross the bridge to start the exciting climb to the Alhambra along the Cuesta de los Chinos. It is comforting to enjoy its peace and quiet, together with the constant gentle splash of water. Almost at the end of the slope, on the right, you’ll come across an exuberant gardened area, filled with a romantic air. The traveller would do well to explore the area: Carmen de los Martires, Views of the Vega, Casa Museo Manuel de Falla, the Alhambra Palace Hotel, and the Albaicin from the Alhambra…
We cannot finish this tour around the Alhambra without mentioning two spots which carry an intense emotional meaning for us: One of them is La Fuente del Avellano, a spring of delicious water that you can reach by following a path on the right side of the river Daro, from where it is easy to contemplate the magic stillness of the Sacromonte Abbey. For a long time, the path leading to the fountain had a wild appearance, yet recently it has been taken care of by the city council, which has even put up a series of engravings of famous poems along its course. The other spot still preserves its ancient magic, for La Silla del Moro (The Moor’s Chair), named for having been a place of retreat for the Nazari kings, has remained as a ruin for quite long, untouched and disregarded by the authorities. There is even a fence, which prevents people from trespassing, but you
shouldn’t hesitate to look for some hole to get inside if you want to enjoy one of the most spectacular views, not only of the Alhambra, but also of the entire city at its feet. If you want to freak out watching the sun set behind the mountain pass of La Malaha, follow the road to the cemetery, and you will reach this fantastic spot. El Realejo is meant to be the old Jewish quarter where one finds convents and traditional bakeries in the most unexpected places. It is situated on the south slope of the Alhambra.
Puerta del Sol Puerta del Sol
This tiny square has its name due to its location, and you can enjoy the sun from dawn until dusk here. This undiscovered jewel reminds one of the hilly villages in the Alpujarras.
Altramuces Campo del Principe
A very wide square surrounded by beer gardens and restaurants, where the locals love to go for tapas, especially during the summer.
We recommend this vintage bar with specialties such as quail and lettuce hearts, complete with perfect toppings.
Cafe-Bar Fernando Calle Molinos 2 When it comes to vintage, the winner is the family bar Fernando, an establishment where good tapas compete with good set meals. Anchovies, migas, or paella can be the perfect partner for a traditional caha (small beer). The walls are a mosaic of photographs of the city, starting at the end of the 19th century.
Candela Santa Escolastica, opposite Plaza de los Girones A miniscule tapas bar, owned by Miguel and Africa. They’re from the Basque country and Madrid and very proud of their good wines, exquisite tapas, and both full of cordiality. They have managed to create a wonderful meeting point for all kinds of people: Painters, students passing by, journalists, and bohemians in general find each other without needing to make prior arrangements… And the best thing is that you never know when you’re going to leave.
Restaurante Hfcuri Santa Escolastica Modern Mediterranean cuisine and decoration.
Try the tofu and the seaweed croquettes.
Helados Los Italianos Gran Via 4 Some of the best ice cream in the country. One of the most beloved and talked-about businesses in the city. Like it says on the inside the counter of this old ice cream shop: “There is no better gentleman than the one who serves well,” a philosophy that works.
La Sabanilla beside Plaza Bib Rambla
The decoration of a highwaymen’s tavern is
home to a mostly female group of costumers.
Some good wines can be drunk amongsl Mm old wood of this bar.
Bar Aliatar beside Plaza Bib Rambla A bar that seems to have always been there with the fastest and most efficient team one can imagine. No sane person would argue with reganls to the best place to eat sandwiches in the city, whether medium or large. Try their perritos (hotdogs). Not to be confused with another Aliata r. in Albaicin, which is also popular, but due to its snails this time.
Los Diamantes Calle Navas
Offering great quality products: fresh fish from Motril and vegetables from La Vega, all cooked with no nonsense.
Bar Provincias Calle Provlncias, near the cathedral If you can find it, its tapas won’t disappoint you. Also of interest is the collection of photographs of bullfighters and flamenco singers.
Bar Soria Plaza de la Trinidad
Friendly bartenders and generous tapas, fish, and natural products from the mountain town of our friend Mingo, the guy who always knows what’s going on in his bar.
Bohemia Jazz Cafe Calle Santa Teresa 17
Good and original cocktails, attractive milkshakes.
and combinations of fruit, liqueurs, and coffees. The best reason to visit this place is for its excellent collection of naturally roasted varieties of coffee. For the coffee junky, our city can be disappointing; if you are one of us, this is your place. The strange floor arrangement of the shop invites a walk and a glance at the impressive collection of photographs on its walls, with the endless sight of little objects occupying any free corner. The whole thing is the product of Antonio Cantudo’s pathological obsession with miniatures and antiques. Jazz makes up the rest of the atmosphere, and, at night, live piano and theatre monologues.
Discos Mai Gusto Calle Homo de Abad 4 Right opposite club Planta Baja, this is your shop if you like the roughest sounds in rock ‘n’ roll history. From ’77 punk to the Crypt catalogue to Las Vegas striptease music compilations. Also, a good selection of comics and alternative press.
Libreria Flash Plaza de la Trinidad One of the few bookshops in Granada where you can buy music and cinema literature, with a wide offer of comics.
Stereo Discos Plaza de los Lobos
A small and quiet record shop, where you can buy international pop and art rock.
We will finish our tour recommending late-night bars that resist falling victim to the dictatorship of commercial music…
Ruido Rosa Calle Sol
A small place that has been filling the city with vintage pop and rock ‘n’ roll. Many of us in Granada would not know what to do without it.
El Son Calle Joaquin Costa, near Plaza Nueva A more grown-up atmosphere, El Son combines warm Latin music (Brazil, Salsa, Son…) on the first floor, with more updated music in its dungeons.
A hot night is assured.
Segunda Edicion Plaza de los Lobos Almost a temple for pop fans, with sixties-era clothes and plenty of Peter Pan complexes on two floors.
Peaton Calle Socrates 6
A meeting place for the musicians of the Granada scene, its decoration leaves no room for doubts.
A sanctuary for those who want to preserve alternative rock against all odds.
We don’t want to leave you without mentioning an area to which we are emotionally attached;
El Salon, a boulevard and a park that runs parallel to the river Genii and oozes romanticism and will grasp melancholy spirits any time of the year.
Hut, beware: The romanticism turns colourful, and veterans of the oldest profession in the world and transvestites get together to offer their best, only for some money in return!
Calle Duquesa 5, Granada
tel. +34 958 283256 fax +34 958 523150
Pepe started as a radio DJ with his programme ‘Marcapasos’ and as a journalist for national music magazines such as Rock de Lux. His wife Lola didn’t want to go back to Switzerland, and, after several voyages through Europe’s capitals, they decided to set up their own music shop, Marcapasos, in 1995. Each time Pepe arrived back from London, the local DJs gently forced him to open his suitcase, and, even between his underwear, all kinds of vinyl would appear.
The local DJs were actually buying directly out of Pepe’s bag before the records even reached the shop. Now, after nine years of struggle against all commercial hypes, Pepe and Lola have obtained what they call “a musical union of intensive care,” and they add that today it’s still a great satisfaction to transmit their favourite music to their customer.
Here is their preferred route through Granada
Taberna 22 Cuesta San Gregorio 22
Near our favourite square, Plaza CarvajaluH, mid
perfect for a refreshing beer on a sunny day.
Bar Aixa Plaza Larga
A great spot to have a local wine in this classic bar that always has been here. On Saturday mornings, there is a street market on this square, and it’s especially enjoyable for its atmosphere.
Taberna 1899/Puerta del Vino Paseo de los Tristes Two other typical wine bars with great views of the Albaicin and the Alhambra.
El Bahuelo Carrera del Darro
Magnificent setting with a relaxed ambience in this ancient bathhouse.
Los Faroles Barranco de los Negros In the Sacramonte area, on the terrace of this bar, you can admire truly fascinating sunsets while losing the sense of time.
Bodegas Castaneda Calle Almireceros La Brujederia Monjas del Carmen Bareto El Sol San Matias El Circulo Calle Elvira
In the city centre, there are some more bars where you can go at midday or in the evening
for a pleasant combination of wines and tapas.
The few mentioned above are our favourites.
Centro Jose Guerrero
Calle Oficios 8, near the cathedral, tel. +34 958 225185 Since its opening in 2000, we have enjoyed fantastic expositions in this contemporary art centre, with artists such as De Kooning, Miro, Campano, and Avedon.
Fundacion Rodriguez Acosta
Callejon Nino del Royo 8, tel. +34 958 227497
At the beginning of the 20th century, painter Jose Rodriguez Acosta constructed this architectural pearl, where ancient Arab relics are mixed with western details. Wander through its magnificent gardens and patios, where one can admire a marvellous collection of statues and archaeological treasures.
Carmen de los Martires near Alhambra A beautiful spot to overview the city while relaxing in its charming gardens.
Andalucia Personal – the book in a box
Andalucia Personal We released a travel box, Andalucia Personal, a different travel guide with CD’, containing a book and a CD, presenting : – music by Tindersticks, dEUS, Buscemi, Vive La Fête, Mardi Gras BB, and many others. – Special ‘off the beaten track’ travel tips. – Personal, alternative views on Andalucia. (Granada, Malaga, Ronda, Cordoba, Tarifa and Marbella) – Local guides presenting accommodation, hotels, restaurants, bars, nightlife, flamenco, … – Stories, facts and anecdotes on important artists and their link with Andalucia. (Pablo Picasso, Orson Welles, Ernest Hemingway, Antonio Ordoñez, …)